I would advise that you stick with any handle that is snugly affixed to the axe head. If the head wiggles even a bit, however, it is a potential danger and should be replaced. This article will teach you how to customize any axe into a tool fit for the Illinois Railsplitter himself. I encourage you to try to find an heirloom axe to restore. With the success of Gransfors Bruks, boutique axes have mushroomed in popularity over the last decade or so. You can then pour the epoxy mixture into the hole that is between the fiberglass handle and the maul. Ensure you pour the epoxy slowly initially while checking if the caulking cord sealant really reaches the bottom of the handle and there is no leaking.
The important thing here is that the steel and especially the wood soak up oil so they will repel water and protect the integrity of the axe. If, however, it is wood – and it should be wood — then you are ready for the last aspect of doctoring your axe. You will want to sand the handle in the same fashion you did with the axe head. Using small squares of sandpaper, start with your coarsest grit and work up to your finest. I like throwing off sawdust and really learning the shape of the handle with my hands. So, how do you go aboutreplacing a splitting maul handle? Rather than replacing your old or broken wooden handle with a new wooden handle, you can replace it with durable fiberglass handle. Fiberglass is costly but it will not require replacement as frequent as a wooden handle would . Some axe handles come in fiberglass while some axe handles are wooden.
So I went to using my dremel to put an edge on the head this morning, and the first side went fine, then during the second, the neighbor’s cat jumped on my leg and startled me. If you are looking for some heavy work like felling big trees or logs than buy a maul and if you want to split small and medium-size wooden blocks go for the quality ax. Always consider the above-mentioned points before taking any decision we are sure you will not regret. Firewood can easily be obtained through felling dead trees by best axes and mauls and finally splitting and chopping them into smaller chunks. I didn’t swing the maul as much as the ax, however, I considered the fibreglass handle to be superior in nearly every respect. So if you can have the splitting power of a traditional wood axe packed into 3-pounds, then I’d say you have yourself a good deal.
In order to fit the handle into the blade, force will be needed even in the kerf offers space inside the blade eye. Take a piece of blunt wood and strike the other end of the handle. Use the handle like a wedge and try to push it into theAvoid excessive force when pushing in the handle. This includes striking it on the ground or using a steel hammer. Axe handles are typically standardized, meaning that it should be easy for you to find a handle that fits your axe’s blade. Axe handles may be purchased at a home hardware store. Due to the fact that handles can be replaced fairly easily however, this is only recommended if you’re strapped for time and need a new axe in a hurry. Generally speaking, axes are designed to be tough and hardy.
If you need to stake a tent to the ground or drive rebar into the ground, an axe with a maul option would be a perfect choice. However, an axe is still a great option for chopping your own wood. It doesn’t require any type of fuel for it to function. As well as, it isn’t a chore to move around your property. All it really requires is asheathfor safe transportation. But having the right tools can make this task so much easier. There was a time when garden tools ruled the world with might and brilliance. While there are so many options to choose from, you can truly never go wrong with the traditional, American made Pulaski axe from Council Tools. A household brand name that outdoorsmen trust, the durability and quality of materials is unparalleled. Designed with s removable hex nut to easily replace the handle if needed.
Delivery times may vary, especially during peak periods. I guess I always choke at the price when I see them in the stores. I have a full set of Fiskars axes and I prefer them for weigh and for durability. I have wrapped the area behind the head of a maul with wire before to prevent it from damage when splitting blocks of hardwood. The products with special discounts and extra services are marked by tags. If you’re having trouble deciding which tool you need, you can’t go wrong with the Michigan single bit axe. It’s a classic design, and can be used in a wide variety of situations. It’s an incredibly useful hatchet for outdoor and recreational use. The bit of this axe is the same weight as the Michigan series, at 3.5 pounds.
Also, recently had the oportunity to use this tool to open the ceiling and walls in the attic of a 1 1/2 stry private dwelling which had knee walls and short ceiling. This tool, or a halligan will work better than a hook, as a 6 foot hook we carry won’t really fit. Wood is oh so nicer on the hands/arms than fiberglass too! We still have a wood handles on a lot of our axes…much nicer feel than fiberglass IMHO. Just throwing my 2 cents in… I have the same 6lb pick head axe with the 32″ handle from Fire Axe Inc. as well and absolutely love it. I’ve been carrying it with me on the truck and it’s seen it’s good share of use. I was a little hesitant to put it to the test at first because of how nice it looked but after a few times out with it I had no problem letting fly with no shame.
You need to chop the ice in a trough shape to keep the handle from hitting the ice surface. I also spray paint the entire axe black to blend-in with the colour of the snowmobile, people notice it less and therefore I think there is less chance of it being ripped-off. People tend to forget there is a lot more to a good axe than just decent steel and hickory. Everything has to be tuned just right – balance, handle length and shape. You really have to try a high end axe like Gransfors to appreciate the difference. Fibreglass handles seem to be just about indestructible, and nearly impervious to weather and abuse by overstrike. The axes I use and abuse all the time (pulaski, splitting maul, 2.5lb car axe w/24″ handle) all have fibreglass handles.
Unfortunately, for the usual application of an axe, it is a plus if the handle sticks to your hand, so you have to be lucky to find a fiberglass axe handle sans rubber. For axe throwing, you will be much better off with a smooth axe handle, which will glide through your fist smoothly on release. Axe handles with a rubber coating, such as the ones offered by Leborgne in France, do have a tendency to stick to your palm, ruining the throw. What is more, the rubber will come loose soon after a few missed throws, and will fray heavily if you ever decide to shorten the handle. Find the most frequent questions on synthetic axe handles answered here, with a focus on axe throwing. An axe head’s weight will also dictate how well it performs for specific purposes. Heavier heads have greater striking power since they have a higher center of gravity (see “Balance” below), but that weight comes with a cost.
Handpicked Handles – We will add $2.25 per handle to your order. HANDLE CLASSES ARE LISTED IN ALL CAPS. Individual products are listed in Upper and lower case. Many suppliers are behind in production and shipping due to the pandemic. We will contact you if there is a shipping delay. After you’ve worked on securing the handle from protruding side, it’s a good idea to saw it down. Sawing down the protruding side will maximize the force of your swing. Keep a few millimetres on the end of the handle for good measure.